Temperature

Temperature. The most favorable temperature for interior plants during the day is 65 to 70° and during the nigh, 60 to 65° F. During the summer, plants that are located in direct sunlight may need to be moved or shaded during midday to avoid extreme heat and injury.

During the winter, plants may need to be moved away from the window. The window is the colder part of the room, especially if there are no storm windows. If the plants are to be kept near the window, some sort of protection such as plastic or paper is needed.

Houseplants may be moved outside if done gradually. It should be done until the night temperature is regularly above 60° F. Do not put plants directly in the sun. It can be a great shock to the plants and will do them no good. Slowly put them into direct sunlight. It takes time for plants to get used to the different light intensities and the higher temperatures. When the outdoor temperatures begin to go lower than 60° F., the plants should be brought back inside.

Geraniums (Pelargonium)

Many new kinds of this popular pot plant have been developed, the best known of which is the zonal type named for the markings in the foliage. Mainly, leaves are green, but the colorful zonal sub-group called fancy-leaf geraniums sport variegated foliage. Ivy-leaf varieties, another group of geraniums, perform masterfully in hanging baskets. The scented foliage types give you nutmeg, peppermint, lemon, rose, or other fragrance to enjoy.

Ball-shaped heads of colorful small blooms arise on tall stalks. Zonal kinds come in pink, red, salmon, and white. Ivy-leaved geraniums range from rose-carmine to white.

Light

Geraniums are high-light intensity plants ; they thrive in a south or southwest window.

Water

Since they have thick, succulent stems, geraniums can withstand some drought. But for healthy, vigorous growth and blooms, water plants every time soil surface becomes dry. Drainage must be good; they resent waterlogged soil.

Special Helps

New geraniums are commonly rooted by taking three-to five-inch growth cuttings from healthy mature plants.

Geraniums bloom best when slightly pot-bound. Without a daily dose of at least three or four hours of sunshine, your plants will become leggy and refuse to bloom.

Don’t feed your geraniums unless they have stopped growing or the foliage is pale. Even then, use only a small amount of any water-soluble fertilizer (overfeeding will result in leggy plants that produce few blooms).

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Flytrap (Dionaea muscipula; Venus flytrap)

This small, novelty houseplant can catch and digest flies and other insects, but does not need them to survive. The hinged traps naps shut when an unsuspecting insect touches the sensitive hair inside. Digestive juices secreted by the plant finish off the victim, and the rap is set again. Cut off the small flowers that appear in June on tall stems, as they weaken the plant.

Light

Venus flytrap grows in sun in its native Carolinas. Full sun bring out the red coloring inside the leaf traps; if grown mostly in shade, they will be green only.

Water

Never let this plant lack moisture; water every other day. Flytrap prefers high humidity.

Special Helps

This is one plant that doesn’t need drainage. It grows along the edges of moist sandy bottom land in its natural habitat. In the home, use a wide shallow container without drainage and plant the specimen-not too firmly-in loose, live sphagnum moss. When watering, fill the sallow container with water to wet the moss thoroughly, then pour off excess water. Never fertilize the Venus flytrap.

Propagate by root division. Plants do die naturally as they mature, but new ones will normally take the parent’s place. An improper environment-shade, poor potting medium, or air that is too dry-will stunt the flytrap’s growth.

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Fittonia (Nerve Plant)

This low creeping plant comes handsomely “decorated” with white, pink, or red veins in the leaves. When flowers appear, they grow erect as white spikes.

Light

Grow shade-loving fittonia in a north window or away from sun in near east, south, or west exposure.

Water

Keep the soil moist at all times. Unless your fittonia is growing in the humidity of a terrarium-for which it’s admirably suited-set the potted plant on a pebble tray containing wet gravel to help raise the humidity.

Special Helps

Feed lightly once or twice a year. Fittonia prefers a porous soil mixture containing plenty of organic matter. Prune to keep under control. Propagate by taking stem cuttings, preferably in the spring.

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Firefern (Oxalis hedysariodes rubra)

This shrubby plant is an oxalis, but unlike others in the family, it has red foliage. Little yellow flowers contrast nicely against satiny wine-red leaves.

Light

Firefern needs a sunny window for its foliage to remain a rich red color.

Water

Keep soil evenly moist. Firefern resents soggy soil, so be sure pot has adequate drainage in bottom.

Special Helps

Use standard potting mixture. Like most houseplants, the main requirement is a porous medium to allow enough air to get to the roots. Feed sparingly; a light feeding every two or three months dhould be enough.

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Ficus

Rubber plant (Ficus elastica)

Ficus elastica (rubber plant) and F. elastica ‘decora’ (with broader leaves and red new growth) have long been rated as easy to grow, but really they’re not. The assumption has been that the rubber plant would grow in the poorest light and with minimum water. Untrue! A rubber plant needs bright light and regular watering. In its natural environment, it’s a big tree, growing in full sun.

Celeste fig

F. lyatra (fiddleleaf fig) sports huge, stiff, glossy leaves that demand constant moisture or they turn brown and drop. F. benamina (weeping fig) has small, waxy leaves on pendant branches and is the easiest of his group o manage. Although less fussy about light and water than the others, it will go into a decline if you put it in too dim a light and treat it like a desert plant.

The celeste fig boast bold, handsome leaves that are decorative from spring through fall. They drop just a deciduous trees are losing leaves outside. After they go, however, the angular stems offer their own peculiar beauty throughout dreary winter months.

Light

All ficus species like bright, indirect sun. full sun through glass will burn the leaves.

Water

Weeping fig (Ficus benjamina)

Keep the soil moist to the touch. Frequency of watering depends (as with any houseplant) on the size of the plant and pot and whether the container has drainage and is made of clay, plastic, or ceramic.

Special Helps

Use a general potting soil lightened with a little sand or perlite. Feed three or four times a year with any complete solube or liquid houseplant food. If your plant grows too fast, space feeding at longer intervals or eliminate altogether. Do nont feed Celeste fig during its winter dormancy periode.

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Fern

Boston fern

The most popular fern for home decoration is the Boston (Nephrolepis exaltata bostoniensis), which comes in more forms than the other fern classes. Some grow leaves only eight inches long, while other kinds reach four to five feet.

Other interesting ferns for indoor use are small brake fern (Pteris), which features wiry  leave. If you want a Victoria brake fern (Pteris victoriae), with its jade green fronds stripes silvery white, you will probably find it among plants sold for terrariums. This does not mean you must grow in terrarium, though, it’s beautiful anywhere.

Maidenhair fern (Adiantum) is a small type having wiry leaf stems with long fronds radiating from them in spoke fasion. Small, fan-shaped leaflets line each spoke.

Asplenium, another plant group from which a number of handsome ferns come, includes bird’s-nest fern (Asplenium nidus). Its bright green, lance-shaped leaves are whole rather than feathery, and arise stiffly in a whorl from a crown.

Asplenium myriophyllum, a lacy fern, puts up fronds of 6 to 15 inches and is suitable to grow in a cool greenhouse. Japanese holly-fern (Cyrtonium falcatum ‘Rochefordianum’) gets its common name from the stiff, varnished look of its 8 – to 10 – inch fronds. It’s easier to grow than the Boston fern and makes less demand for high humidity.

Staghorn fern

Staghorn fern (Platycerium vassei), with its antler-shaped leaves, never fails to attract attention. Its grows naturally on trees, so in cultivation attach it to a ball of sphagnum on aboard and hang it up.

Light

In nature,fern grow where light intensity is low. In the home, ferns do well under bright light, but not direct sun. in shout and west windows, hang a sheer curtain to dilute the intensity of the sun, but it’s not necessary. Never expose variegated Pteris ferns to sun, just bright light.

Water

Bird's-nest fern

Fern like an even moisture supply to thrive (water less during short, dark winter days). On sunny days, mist foliage early in the morning. Don’t mist on dark, damp days, though, or so late in the day that mist remains on leaves overnight. That could invite mold or fungus to form. Once one of these unwelcome guests appears, you might as well destroy the affected plant and start over.

Leaf wilting generally indicates a lack of water. Yellowing, other than that of natural aging or disease, is a sign of excessive moisture or poor drainage. To ensure good drainage for your fern-never allow it to stand in water-use about an inch of clay chips in the bottom of the pot.

To water a staghorn fern, suspend it from a shower head in your bathroom and turn a fine spray of water over the plant, sphagnum, and board. Leave in the shower until dripping stops. Follow this unusual watering procedure twice a week.

Special Helps

Feed ferns with care-once every six month with a slow-release should be enough. If you use a liquid houseplant fertilizer, be careful not to use more than stated on container label. And remember: always water your plants before applying a fertilizer.

Asplenium myriophyllum

Avoid extremes in temperatures and drafty conditions. Keep ferns away from hot air registers. Propagate ferns at any time of year by root division. Ferns dislike heavy soil. Use a commercial mixture high in peat moss, or make your own with two parts peat moss or leaf mold, one part garden loam, and one part perlite or coarse sand. Add a little crushed charcoal to the mixture.

Source : Growing Houseplants 

Dracena (Dracaena)

Corn Plant (Dracaena massangeana)

The great variety of dracenas available provide dramatic forms for interior design. These impressively large foliage plant make good choice for either formal or informal setting , regardless of  whether you use them singly or as focal points for mass arrangement of plant collection. And as an added plus, they are easy to grow.

Dracaena fragrans massangeana often is called the corn plant because its wide leaves resemble those of a cornstalk. The yellow stripe that runs the length of each leaf will disappear if the plant stands too far from its light source, but the all-green foliage is still lush. Brown leaf tips indicate improper watering-either too little or too much.

  

 Dracaena janet craig has several relatives of similar appearance, all of which often are called dragon trees. They do well in medium light and average house humidity if grown in porous soil and provide with good drainage.

Dracaena warnecki

The striking leaves of Dracaena warnecki make it popular in spite of its tendency to develop brown tips and edge. You can snip of these discoloration with scissors.

One of the most desirable of indoor plant, Dracaena marginata  has narrow bottle-green leaves edged with red. This angular, sculptural plant will reach a height of six feet.

Dracaena godseffiana, called Florida Beauty, is a dwarf, maturing at 18 to 24 inches tall. Its wiry stems of green leaves mottled with creamy white grow in a haphazard manner.

Light

Florida Beauty (Dracaena godseffiana)

Grow in an east window or out of direct sun in south and west windows to maintain brightly colored foliage of the variegated types. Dracaena will survive with only remote artificial light, but growth will be much slower.

Water

Dracaenas withstand neglected for some time, but it’s best to keep soil just moist to the touch. Lower leaves of D. marginata will drop if you withhold water too long. Of course, old leaves will drop eventually, anyway, resulting in the angular stem structure that’s generally pleasing. As with all houseplants, always use unsoftened, room-temperature water.

Draceana janet craig

Special Helps

Loose, well-drained soil high in organic matter encourages good growth,; a general potting soil mixture will suffice. Feed with any complete soluble or liquid houseplant fertilizer every three month, year around.

Start new plants from stem cutting or by air layering. Rejuvenate an overly leggy dracaena by cutting it off four to six inches above ground. New growth will sprout on what’s left of the old potted stem. 

Source : Growing Houseplants

Watering

Most plants should be kept moist, but not super saturated. The soil should be drenched each watering, which means allowing the water to flow out of the container. Therefore, care should be taken when selecting a container. The planter should have drainage holes in the bottom so the excess water is able to drain out. If the plant is being watered through the bottom, remember to remove the plant from the water within an hour or as soon as the surface of the soil is moist. If the plant is left in standing water, damage may occur to the root systems. Tap water is generally safe for houseplants. If the water is softened, an adverse effect may occur. Most softeners contain sodium, which may build up in the soil and eventually become toxic. Another element which may be present in water is fluoride. Fluoride can cause injury in some foliage plants, especially those in the Lilaceae family.

Clay pots are good if one is prone to overwatering. Clay pots are porous, meaning that when the surface of the soil dries, the rest of the soil is also dry. Plants grown in plastic pots will require less watering because they are non-porous and hold water longer. Clay and plastic pots, with drainage holes, are the best containers in which to grow successful plants.

Desert Rose (Adenium obesum)

Different varieties of Adenium are similar in that they all produce attractive flowers and also usually produce a fat stem near the base (the caudex). However, although they all have beautiful flowers and fat/interesting stems, there is endless variation in these traits and little agreement amongst plant-lovers on which is the best!
Adeniums in general are well adapted to the hot dry conditions of southern Arizona from March through October, but have essentially no frost tolerance, so must be protected whenever cold temperatures are expected.
Because winter protection is required, Adeniums are almost always planted in containers, and moved when necessary to provide protection. As for all plants in containers, more attention is necessary than for plants in the ground. In containers, soil conditions change very quickly - soil in containers heats up and cools down much faster than does native soil; also, soil water content changes much more quickly in containers.

Light
Where native, Adeniums can grow in full sunlight, and if properly managed, they will also tolerate the full sun. Since we protect our plants in the winter by placing them under artificially warm conditions and under much lower light levels than exist outdoors, we cannot immediately place our plants in direct sun in the spring - they must be gradually adapted to higher light, and will likely do best if maintained under partial shade throughout the summer (20-40%). Exposure to full sunlight from noon to 5:00 PM in mid-summer can be especially dangerous. Under shade, leaves will be darker green and likely experience less damage from wind. Flower production may suffer if excessive shade is used.

Water
Proper watering is the key to keeping your Adenium healthy. Because every situation is unique, it is impossible to give a precise watering schedule that will lead to best results, but a few guide-lines will be given. Frequency of watering is determined by the soil mix and container which you use. A well-drained 'cactus' soil mix should be used to avoid excessive moisture around the roots, but such mixes will require more frequent watering. Plants in unglazed terra cotta containers will need to be watered more frequently than plants in glazed or plastic containers. Care should be taken to assure that drainage holes in the container are not blocked.

Special Helps
During the active-growing season (late-May through early September), application of a complete liquid fertilizer (one which contains nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium) once or twice a month, or use of a controlled (slow) release fertilizer at the rates recommended on the package will satisfy nutritional needs. Slow-release fertilizers should not be applied after mid-summer.

Dizygotheca (Dizigotheca eleganissima; false aralia; thread-leaf)

Botanically speaking, this indoor shrub, which reaches five feet tall, is a dizygotheca-but asking for it by that name wouldn’t get you far in the supermarket. In ordinary trade, it remains Aralia elegantissima. Elegant it is, but by no means as delicate as the foliage might lead you to believe.

Light

This plant need little light and will thrive for years with only artificial overhead light. However, a summer chance does it good. Put it outdoors under a tree where sunlight is well filtered. Tie plant to a stake to avoid wind damage.

Water

Water thoroughly once every week to keep your dizygotheca in peak shape. Supply good bottom drainage. Leaf drop may result from either too dry or waterlogged soil.

Special Help

Use a standard potting soil mixture. Feed established plants lightly every two weeks only during active growth period-early spring trough summer. Propagate by root division.

Source : Growing Houseplants 

Diffenbachia

Several varieties of this popular houseplant are available. One of the thougest is Dieffenbachia amoena, with big, bold, dramatic leaves. If you’re short on space, try the small-leafed varieties such as Rudolph Roehrs (D. picta), which features chartreuse leaves with green midrib.

Light

Dieffenbachia tolerates a wide range of light-from poor to bright. Full sun, however, will yellow the handsome foliage. So give in north, east, or west light-but no more than two hours of direct sun a day.

Water

Don’t let the soil dry out completely or the edges of the leaves will become discolored. If the leaves start too drop, you know that water is needed. One way to water thoroughly is to immerse the pot (not the plant itself) in a pail of water. When the water stops bubbling, the soil is saturated. Remove the pot and allow the excess water to drain out of the bottom of the container. If your house is dry, move your dieffenbachia into a steamy bathroom occasionally.

Special Helps

This native of the tropics likes 70 to 80 F temperatures. Use standard potting mixture. Fertilize with regular houseplant food in spring and summer.

As plant matures, lower leaves die, leaving a leggy stem that’s unsightly. Cut off the plant several inches above ground level and root the stem in water. After roots form, you can pot up the plant or continue to grow in water. The original potted plant will sprout a new stem on the stub

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Croton (Codiaeum)

Other plants pale beside the flashy croton. The hundred-plus varieties dazzle with different leaf colorations and shapes. The one shown combines spots and streaks of green, red, pink, yellow, black, with flushes of orange.

Light

If crotons don’t get strong light-even full sun-for at least four hours a day, they will turn green and lose their usual rainbow colors. Ful coloration will return if you summer your plant outdoors when the sun is strong.

Water

Crotons like moist, but not wet soil at all times. They react adversely to hot, dry conditions and may drops leaves, so provide as much humidity as possible by misting daily.

Special Help

Use a general-purpose potting mixture. Feed every other month from early spring trough midsummer. Air layer or take stem cuttings in spring or summer.

Source : Growing Houseplants

Coleus

These foliage plants come in seemingly endless color combinations of red with green or yellow edges and chartreuse, light and dark green, and bronze markings. Leaves plants produce spike of insignificant blue-purple flowers.

Light
Coleus will tolerate shade, but growing them in sun will bring out their maximum range of color.

Water
Since coleus leaves are large and thin, they give off lots of water and will readily unless they have access to water almost continuously. Water regularly for lush growth.

Special Helps
Feed once a month with regular houseplants fertilizer. Propagate from stem cuttings. Use a standard potting mixture. Pinch tops to induce dense growth.

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Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema commutatum)

Although much splashier than their solid-color cousin, the variegated types are just as easy to grow.

Light

These hardy plants will grow anywhere except in direct sun. however, the variegated types need medium-to-bright light to retain their flashy leaf markings.

Water

Keep soil barely moist at all times.

Special Helps

Use any all-purpose potting mixture, being sure to provide adequate drainage. Propagate by root division or by stem cutting from excessively tall plants.

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Bromeliads

This large family of ornamentals also includes the pineapple and Spanish moss. Many of these plants have such striking foliage that they remain decorative at all times, even when not in flower-the flower spike lasts three month or more on many. Their sculptural quality provides an asset in any décor, contemporary or traditional.

Flowers of the neoregelias-one group of bromeliads-stay small and often bloom unnoticed in water in the cups. To enjoy the blooms, move the plants to a location a low stand or coffe table for viewing from above. The spectacular color of the foliage offers a show itself.

Other bromeliads of special interest include Aechmea fasciata (“urn plant”), with bluish-green stiff leaves, frosted white, and a spike of pink bracts with blue flowers; Vriesia ‘Mariea’ (painted feather), with plain green leaves, but a brilliant spike of yellow and red; Vriesia splendens ‘Major’, ‘flaming sword,’ green leaves striped brown, orange spike; Vriesia viminalis ‘Rex,’ red bracts with yellow flowers, good for small spaces.

Light

Bromeliads prefer bright, but not full sun.

Water

Keep water in the center cup of the plant at all times. The root system is small. Water lightly around the base of the plant once week. Overwatering of roots will cause the plant o root at the base.

Special Helps

Bromeliads care is easy-even the “fool-proof” class. Feeding is optional. Plants will grow for years, content with whatever nutrients they get from the water. If you’re not content without feeding, a little liquid fish emulsion (dilute according to directions and use at half strength) added to the water in the center of cup should be of some benefit if applied every six to eight weeks during the summer month.

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Aloe Vera (Aloe barbadensis)

Aloe vera plants serve as one of the easiest and useful houseplants. Aloe requires little care and even less water due to the succulent nature of the plant's leaves. This plant has well-known medicinal uses, including topical application for burns and wounds, and is a useful beauty product. Aloe vera plant care involves proper planting techniques and choice of growing location.

Aloe produces thick leaves as a true succulent plant that stores water in its foliage. Leaf color is light green with each leaf featuring rows of nubby spikes. Leaves may grow up to 10 inches or more in potted environments. Aloe vera produces no flowers and grows in a rosette fashion with stems arching away from the plant center. The thick leaves of the plant are used to treat minor burns, itching, cuts and bug bites.

Light

Because Aloe Vera plants are very succulent and consist of 95% water, they are extremly frost tender. If they are grown outdoors in warm climates, they should be planted in full sun, or light shade. The soil should be moderately fertile, and fast draining. Established plants will survive a drought quite well, but for the benefit of the plant, water should be provided.
Because of their popularity, Aloe vera plants are available at almost every garden shop or nursery. Unless you live in area with a very mild climate, it's best to leave your Aloe plant in the pot and place it near a window that gets a lot of sun. You can move the pot outdoors during the summer months.

Water

Aloe Vera is a succulent, and as such, stores a large quantity of water within its leaves and root system. During the winter months, the plant will become somewhat dormant, and utilize very little moisture. During this period watering should be minimal. Allow the soil to become completely dry before giving the plant a cup or two of water.

During the summer months, the soil should be completely soaked, but then be allowed to dry again before re-watering. Aloes have a shallow, spreading root system so when it is time to repot choose a wide planter, rather than a deep one. Use a planter with a drainage hole, or provide a 1-2 inch layer of gravel in the bottom of the pot to ensure adequate drainage. Use a good commercial potting mix with extra perlite, granite grit, or coarse sand added. You may also use a packaged 'cacti mix' soil.

Special Helps

Aloe Vera plants are propagated by removing the offsets which are produced around the base of mature plants, when they are a couple inches tall (or larger). They can also be grown from seed. The medicinal properties of Aloe vera have been known and recorded since biblical times. It has been used for a variety of ailments, and as an ointment for burns, cuts, and rashes, as well as an ingredient in various beauty preparations. The sap of the Aloe is a thick, mucilaginous gel. It is this gel which is used medicinally. The outer skin has essentially no value, but because it is commercially easier and less expensive to utilize the entire leaf, 'whole leaf' Aloe juice has been hyped as the 'best'. This is not the case. Source : Growing Houseplants

Begonias

Of the three major categories of begonias, the rhizomatous and fibrous-rooted are grown most often as house-plants, while tuberous begonias make ideal candidates for hanging baskets on porches and patios. The best-known member of the large begonia family is the fiberous-rooted, ever blooming group called wax begonia, with its shiny or waxy leaves. Flower range from red and pink shades to white, and may be single or double. Grow wax begonias indoors and out. Most fiberous-rooted kinds grow about a foot tall; the popular angel wing begonia stretches higher.

Begonias grown primarily for their beautiful foliage belong to the rhizomatous rex group. Hairy, textured leaves arise from their short rhizomes. Foliage color may be purple and green, silver and green, and the distinctive rich chocolate and green of these iron cross begonia. Provide filtered light for glamorous rex begonias all year long.

Touberous begonias rank among the showiest of flowering plants. Flower range in size from three to eight inches in diameter, and come in double and single form with plain, ruffled, and frilled petals. Colors available include apricot, orange, salmon, yellow, crimson, scarlet, pink, rose and white. Hang this trailing begonia outside for summer-long pleasure. It delights in fresh, clean air.

Light

Most begonias don’t like too much sun. They do well in open shade or with some early east sun. They withstand some winter sun better than hot summer sun, which should be filtered. For the most blooms, grow wax begonias in a sunny window during the winter when sun is less intense.

Water

Keep the soil evenly moist; avoid extremes of too wet or too dry. Water as soon as the soil feels dry. Good drainage is essential, waterlog soil will rot roots.

Special Helps

Begonias Wax

Pot up begonia in a loose soil mixture containing plenty of organic matter. Use two parts compost or other available organic matter, one part perlite or coarse sand, and one part good garden loam.

Use care in fertilizing-a slow release type of houseplant food works the best. Give a light feeding every couple of weeks when begonias are blooming.

Disease and insect to be on guard against include bacterial leave spot, botrytis blight, stem rot, and mealy bugs. Bacterial leave spot causes blister like spots on the foliage. Pick infested leaves and burn them. Botrytis blight and stem rot turn plant part brown and black. Remove infected areas and burn. If mealybugs appear, touch each pest with a cotton swab saturated with rubbing alcohol.

Propagate fibrous-rooted begonias such as wax begonias by stern cuttings. Remove the lower leaver from three- to four –inch long cuttings and stick the stern ends in a moist rooting medium such as vermiculite or sand. Then cover with a clear plastic bag to create a moist, greenhouse like atmosphere. To keep the plastic from touching the foliage, which can cause rotting, insert stakes into the medium. Keep the cuttings in a warm spot out of direct sun. Allow three weeks for the cuttings to root, then pot them up.

Propagate rhizomatous begonias having leaves with large veins, such as rex type , by leave cuttings. Remove a leave along with one inch of leave stern from a mature plant. Insert the stem in a moist rooting medium. Anchor the leaf, face up, with tooth picks and sever each main vein. Cover the pot with plastic to maintain high humidity. Roots and plantlets will form at cut points. When plantlets develop several small leaves, remove them from the parent leaf and pot up individually.

Or, cut the big leaf apart so each section includes a part the main stem. Remove and discard the tips of each piece to reduce wilting problem during the rooting process, and insert the base of leaf section in sand, vermiculite, or perlite. To keep the leaf piece from toppling, sink the lower third into the rooting medium. Open the medium with knife. If you try to push the soft leaf into the medium, you’ll crush and ruin it. Check for good roots after two or three weeks. Then pot up each in a two-or three- inch pot.

Start summer flowering tuberous begonians from tubers in February or march. Set the tubers in a shallow container of loose, moist rooting medium such as vermiculite, leaving the pinkish buds exposed. When rooted, pot up in five-inch or larger pots, depending on size of the new roots system.

Water sparingly at first; increase amount of water as the plants grow and can use more moisture. In fall when plants show sign of resting, gradually withhold water. When tops have died down, store tubers in dry vermiculite or sand.

Source : Growing Houseplants

Brassaia (Brassaia actinophyllia, also called Schefflera actinophylla and S.Macrostachya; commonly called schefflera, Australian umbrella tree, Queensland umbrella tree, octopus tree)

The leafy beauty require a little attention. It is available in all sizes, from eight inch seedlings to ceeling height trees. The rate of growth is moderate, through, so don’t be alarmed by the eventual size the plant can reach. If yours get to big, reduce it size by air layering.

The foliage boasts a natural high gloss that’s easy to restore if it becomes dulled by dust. Rub gently with a soft cloth or use your thumb and index finger to renew sheen.

Light

Brassaia likes strong light, but not direct sun.

Water

Water each times the soil surface starts to dry.

Special Helps

Use a general potting mixture. Feed lightly once or twice a year. Propagate by air layering. Make a cut partway through stem at a strong angle and insert a matchstick to keep cut open. Mold a baseball-size wad of wet sphagnum moss around the cut, and enclose in a sheet of plastic. Keep moss moist until new roots form, then pot up. 

Source : Growing Houseplants

Bougainvillea (Bougainvillea glabra; B. spectabilis)

Many named varieties of this plant are available. They are usually tall vines, but the bushier form are easier to keep within bounds, simply by cutting them back after flowering. Bougainvilleas bloom intermittently from late winter through summer. The vines have no natural means of support, so you need to stake and tie them-being wary of the thorns.

Bougainvilleas are erratic about dropping leaves in late fall. Sometimes, they go completely bare; sometimes, only partly so. The red-purple and yellow-orange flowered types are your best best for good bloom. The white-flowered and variegated-leaf forms are a bit difficult and shy-blooming. Variety Barbara Karst is one is one of the most satisfactory.

Light

Bougainvillea loves full sun; if possible, supply at least four hours of sun daily the year around.

Water

Water when soil starts to dry out. If in doubt, do not water; bougainvillea survives dryness better than excessive wetness. Be sure pot has adequate drainage.

Special Helps

Bougainvillea prefers well-drained, moderately fertile soil. Apply any completely soluble or liquid house plant fertilizer monthly from early spring through summer.

Propagate bougainvillea by taking semiwoody cuttings in disfiguring the original specimen. Remove a single leaf along with a bud and a piece of stem. Insert the stem section in a handful of moist sphagnum moss in a plastic bag. Tie the bag firmly around the stem of cutting and set it a spot away from direct sun. when the roots shows up inside the plastic, pot up the new plant.other plants that can be propagated by semiwoody cuttings include rubber plant, hibiscus, and snowflake plant.

Source : Growing Houseplants

Banana plant (Musa nana [cavendishii])

Dwarf banana plant-sold as Musa acuminate-will reach six feet at maturity. This banana variety is not a tree, since the stem is nearly all water and has no bark. Keep this luxuriant tropical plant indoor-the large, tender leaves tear easily in the wind.

Light

The banana plant thrives on bright, indirect sun.

Water

Keep soil moist all year. Watch the leaves. They are hinged along the central rib and will fold down or turn brown if the plant isn’t receiving enough water.

Special Helps

Supply your banana plant with rich, porous soil. Give a light application of any completely soluble or liquid fertilizer every other month from March to September.

You will find your banana virtually pest-free. Old leaves at base of stem turn yellow; cut them off with a knife or scissors. Mature plant will deteriorate after several years. Cut off at base and discard (or cut up for compost pile, if you have one). If the plant is large, you may need a saw for this task. Divide and repot the sucker that have formed underground at the base of the parent plant. (They would crowd each other  if left undisturbed.) Dig down carefully, separate the sprouts, each with its roots, and pot up. 

Source : Growing Houseplants

Avocado (Persea americana)

To prevent this cost-free houseplant from getting to tall, cut at least 1.5 inches off the top to induce branching. Do the same with branch tips.

Light

A sunny east window is fine, but keep plant away from direct sun of south and west exposure.

Water

Water as soon as the soil surface feels dry. The container should have good drainage to avoid root rot.

Special Helps

Save a few seeds from the fruits bought for eating purpose. Wash seeds in warm water to remove clinging matter. Plant seed in potting soil with ¼ of the pointed end of seed above soil level. Or root in a glass jar or other clear container. Stick four toothpicks into seeds so it will rest on edge of glass. Keep level water touching broad base of seed. Position in a warm spot without direct sun. Germination is fastest at 85 F-slower at lower temperatures. Only mature seeds will germinate. In four to eight weeks the seed will split as a tiny stem arises. Pot up carefully when well rooted.

Source : Growing Houseplants

 

Aucuba (Aucuba japonica)

This dense, shrubby evergreen plants grows three feet tall in a pot-larger in a planter. Prune to keep under control and to make shrub bushier. Leaves are leathery and glossy. Gold-dust  plant’s nickname derives from yellowish specks on oblong-shaped foliage. Female aucubas produce small purple flowers followed by scarlet barriers.

Light

Supply bright, indirect light-some east sun will do. Turn plant regularly to expose all sides to same light.

Water

The large number of leaves use lots of water, so never let soil dry completely. Mist foliage regularly.

Special Helps

This cool plant-60 F. is ideal-does better on an unheated porch than in a warm living room.

Use standard potting soil mixture. Feed in spring and summer. Take stem cuttings to start new plants.

Source : Growing Houseplants

Aspidisra (Aspidisra elatior)

Commonly called cast-iron plant, aspidistra lives up to its nickname. One to two feet long, lapered, dark green or variegated leaves arise from a crown.

Light

Aspidistra tolerates a wide range of light. While it will survive in dark corner, it will be more luxuriantnear windows out of direct sun.

Water

More problems arise by overwatering then under-watering. Water thoroughly, then let soil surface dry.

Special Helps

Aspidistra can handle temperatures from 45 to 85 F. Solid green type prefers rich soil (two parts good garden soil, one part compost or leaf mold, one part perlite or sand), but variegated varieties change to all green in rich soil. Feed in spring and summer. Too much hot sun will yellow leaves. White spots with brown margins indicate fungus disease-remove entire leaf and burn. If fern scale insects appear (white males; brown, oyster shaped females), wash them off with soapy water. Trim off brown leaf tips. Obtain new plants by divining old ones. Cut roots apart with a sharp knife. Shade new trans-plants from direct sun.  

Source : Growing Houseplants